Not much of a tip really, more of an observation.

The TDA7293 and its' variants are found in numerous builds today; the
TDA7293 is the 'best' part of the three, and can often be sourced
cheaper than the TDA7294 or TDA7295; you can use it for all three OEM
applications (*absolute* backwards electrical/mechanical
compatability.) Here's the scoop:

The '95 is a '80 watt part', the '94 is a '100 watt part', and the '93
is the same '100 watt part' with extra control/sensor functions (three
package legs not used on the '94 or '95 are enabled on the '93.)

Cut off legs # 5, 11 and 12 of a TDA7293 at the body and it'll go where
ever a '94 or '95 is called for. Likewise, a '94 will work where a '95
is original spec (no leg cutting necessary on a '94 to '95 sub.)

'Leg cutting' of a '93 will not be necessary if the '94/'95 application
doesn't make any connection to pins 5, 11 and 12 ('read the board'.)

As always, if you run into a parallel or bridge application (two or
more TDA729X devices make up one power amp stage), it would be routine
to replace *all of them*, even if only one is obviously shorted/blown
(recommended to efficiently speed up the repair and hedge against
potential rechecks.)

Re. the LM3886 vs. LM3876, same deal; pin for pin backwards
compatibility. The '86 is the 'best' part ('68 watts') vs. the '76 ('56
watts'.) FWIW the only LM3876 application I've seen so far is older JBL
EON powered speakers, as their horn/tweeter power amp stage (they now
get 'upgraded' here to the greater dissipation rated part ;-)